Mike's Vet Dubai

7 min read · 29 October 2026

Cat Nutrition Through Every Life Stage: What to Feed, When to Change, and What to Ignore

Cats have specific nutritional requirements that change from kittenhood through to old age. Getting life stage feeding right matters more than the brand you choose — and some popular dietary trends do cats more harm than good.

A cat eating from a bowl

Cats Are Obligate Carnivores — and That Matters More Than You Think

Unlike dogs, cats cannot adapt their metabolism to a low-protein, plant-heavy diet. They are obligate carnivores — their bodies require nutrients that are only found in animal tissue, and they cannot synthesise several of them from plant precursors the way dogs and humans can.

Taurine is the clearest example. Cats cannot produce enough taurine from other amino acids. If their diet is deficient — which happens in improperly formulated home-cooked or vegetarian diets — they develop dilated cardiomyopathy and retinal degeneration. Both are irreversible by the time they become obvious. Arachidonic acid, vitamin A, and niacin follow the same pattern: dietary requirements that cannot be met by plants.

Commercial cat foods from reputable manufacturers account for all of this. Home-prepared diets very often do not. This is the foundational reason we are cautious about unformulated natural diets for cats — the margin for error is smaller than for almost any other species we see.

Kittens: High Energy, Very Specific Requirements

From weaning to 12 months, kittens need roughly double the calories of an adult cat per kilogram of body weight, alongside higher protein, higher fat, and specific micronutrients — particularly DHA for brain and visual development, and calcium and phosphorus in the right ratios for bone growth. Kitten food is formulated for all of this. Adult cat food is not.

Feeding a kitten on adult food for convenience can result in deficiencies that are not visible during kittenhood but compound over time. The reverse is also true: keeping an adult cat on kitten food for too long contributes to obesity, because kitten food is calorie-dense by design.

If you adopted a kitten without knowing its birth date: kittens under 6 months still have all their deciduous teeth and are visibly growing fast. By 6–9 months they are approaching adult size but still filling out. Most cats can transition to adult food at 12 months. Cats desexed early may benefit from transitioning slightly sooner, as desexing reduces metabolic rate and caloric needs. Transition over 7–10 days by mixing increasing proportions of adult food into the kitten food.

Adult Cats: Where Most of the Mistakes Happen

Adult maintenance covers roughly 1–10 years for most cats and is where gradual problems accumulate without obvious symptoms.

The most consistent issue we see is overfeeding, particularly with dry food. Free-feeding dry kibble — leaving a bowl topped up all day — is the single biggest contributor to feline obesity in our clinic population. Cats, despite the popular image of being indifferent, are food-motivated and will eat beyond their energy needs when food is constantly available. Two measured meals a day is better. It also means you notice immediately when your cat stops eating, which is a significant clinical sign.

The hydration question matters more in Dubai than in many other climates. Cats evolved in arid environments and have a low thirst drive — they are designed to get most of their water from prey. A mouse is around 70% water. Dry kibble is around 10%. In a city where air conditioning removes moisture from the air and cats spend most of the day indoors, chronic subclinical dehydration is common in cats on dry-only diets, and it quietly strains kidney function over years. We are not saying dry food is bad. Many cats do well on it. But if hydration is going to be borderline, it is more likely to cause problems in Dubai than in a cooler, more humid climate.

Senior Cats (10 and Above): When Diet Becomes Clinical

Senior nutrition in cats is the area most commonly misunderstood, and where well-intentioned advice sometimes causes harm.

The protein myth is the most important to address. For many years, senior cat food meant lower protein — the assumption being that kidneys would be spared by processing less of it. We now know this is wrong. Older cats actually need more protein than younger adults, because their ability to utilise dietary protein decreases with age. A senior cat on a low-protein food will lose muscle mass and body condition. The thin, bony elderly cat that many owners assume is 'just old' is often a cat that has been protein-deficient for years.

The exception is confirmed chronic kidney disease (CKD). Cats with CKD do benefit from reduced protein and, more importantly, reduced phosphorus — but this should be prescribed after bloodwork confirms the diagnosis, not assumed because the cat is 11. Putting a healthy senior cat on a kidney diet is unnecessary and potentially counterproductive.

Weight loss in a senior cat is a clinical sign, not an ageing inevitability. Hyperthyroidism is the most common cause — it produces weight loss despite a normal or increased appetite, and responds well to treatment. Diabetes, dental pain, gastrointestinal disease, and cancer are also on the list. If your cat over 10 is losing weight, book a vet appointment rather than switching foods and hoping for the best.

Fad Diets and What Cat Food Marketing Wants You to Think

Raw feeding: the biological rationale is sound — cats evolved eating whole prey — but the practical execution is where problems arise. Raw meat in a domestic setting can carry Salmonella, Campylobacter, Listeria, and Toxoplasma gondii. Cats can shed these in their faeces, creating transmission risks for people in the household. Nutritionally balanced home-prepared raw diets are genuinely difficult to formulate — errors in supplementation cause problems that take months to become visible.

Commercially prepared raw diets that carry a complete and balanced claim are a different proposition: they have been formulated to avoid nutritional imbalances, and many are high-pressure pasteurised to reduce pathogen load. If you want to feed raw, this is the route worth considering — and discuss hygiene protocols with your vet.

Grain-free for cats: less of a concern than for dogs (the cardiac link identified in dogs has not been replicated in cats, who have very different carbohydrate metabolism). But grain-free is not inherently better either. Most carbohydrates in cat food serve as binders for the kibble. Whether those carbohydrates come from grains or legumes makes very little nutritional difference for a healthy cat.

Novel protein diets — duck, kangaroo, venison — have genuine utility for cats with confirmed food allergies or intolerances. They are also heavily marketed to cats without any food sensitivity, which inflates cost without providing benefit. If your vet has not identified a food allergy, there is no nutritional reason to pay a premium for exotic proteins.

Wet vs Dry: The Honest Answer

Wet food is generally better for adult cats than dry food, primarily for hydration reasons. It also tends to be higher in protein and lower in carbohydrates, which aligns better with feline metabolism. If you can feed wet food for at least one meal a day, that is a meaningful improvement over dry-only, even if it is not a full switch.

Transitioning a dry-food cat to wet food requires patience. Start by placing a small amount of wet food alongside their usual dry rather than removing the dry abruptly. Some cats take weeks to accept wet food, and forcing the transition too quickly can cause food aversion — where the cat associates the new food with stress and refuses it long-term. If your cat has been on dry food for years and is healthy, don't force the change. A water fountain alongside their dry food is a lower-stress way to improve hydration.

The cats that benefit most from switching to wet food are those showing early signs of kidney issues on bloodwork, cats with recurrent urinary tract problems, and overweight cats — since wet food tends to be more satiating per calorie than dry.

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References

  1. 1.Case LP, Daristotle L, Hayek MG, Raasch MF. Canine and Feline Nutrition. 3rd ed. Mosby Elsevier; 2011.
  2. 2.Hand MS, Thatcher CD, Remillard RL, Roudebush P, Novotny BJ. Small Animal Clinical Nutrition. 5th ed. Mark Morris Institute; 2010.
  3. 3.Laflamme DP. Nutrition for aging cats and dogs and the importance of body condition. Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice. 2005;35(3):713-742.
  4. 4.Zoran DL. The carnivore connection to nutrition in cats. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association. 2002;221(11):1559-1567.
  5. 5.Elliott J, Rawlings JM, Markwell PJ, Barber PJ. Survival of cats with naturally occurring chronic renal failure: effect of dietary management. Journal of Small Animal Practice. 2000;41(6):235-242.

Frequently Asked Questions

When should I switch my kitten to adult cat food?

At 12 months for most cats. Make the transition gradually over 7–10 days by mixing increasing amounts of adult food into their kitten food. If your kitten was desexed early, you can begin the transition slightly sooner, as desexing reduces metabolic rate and caloric needs.

My senior cat is losing weight. Should I change their food?

Start with a vet visit rather than a food change. Weight loss in cats over 10 is a clinical sign — hyperthyroidism, dental pain, kidney disease, and cancer are all common causes. Switching foods can mask the problem and delay diagnosis.

Is raw feeding safe for cats in Dubai?

Home-prepared raw diets carry real risks — pathogen exposure (Salmonella, Toxoplasma) and difficulty achieving nutritional balance. Commercially prepared and complete raw diets reduce both risks considerably. If you want to feed raw, choose a product with a complete and balanced claim and discuss hygiene protocols with your vet.

How much should I feed my cat?

This depends on their weight, age, and the specific food. Use the feeding guide on the packaging as a starting point, measure by weight using a kitchen scale rather than by eye, and aim for two meals a day rather than free-feeding. Your vet can confirm whether your cat is at a healthy weight at any consultation.

My cat will only eat one brand of food and refuses everything else. Is that a problem?

It is worth addressing gradually. If that food is ever unavailable, a sudden change will be very difficult. Try introducing a small amount of a second food alongside their usual food — the goal is not to replace it, just to build tolerance for variation. Cats that are ill sometimes stop eating, and a cat with a very narrow diet is harder to manage through illness or hospitalisation.